Red Sky-high

Chef Alan Wesley Kwan puts his mark on legendary Bangkok dining experience

Wagyu beef tenderloin Rossini steak with Madiera sauce.

When the weather in this tropical metropolis starts cooling down, modern-day gastronomes look for a destination that allows them to enjoy fine food amid the blessing of nature.

Well, they can look no further than Red Sky, the city's much-loved restaurant on the rooftop floor of Centara Grand at CentralWorld.

Recently, the hotel has welcomed new executive sous chef Alan Wesley Kwan from Irvine, California. The American-Chinese chef is now leading the Red Sky kitchen with his resolute cooking approach focusing on prime ingredients from across the globe.

For Red Sky cuisine, Kwan said he still retains the classic Western character, a perfect blend of French and Italian fares. Yet he's also gradually making the menu a little more homey and wholesome, with his signature East-meets-West touch.

Don't miss the North Atlantic salmon tartare (755 baht). It's a lovely platter of neatly-chopped sashimi-grade salmon seasoned with horseradish, local chillies, avocado and yoghurt, and encased by paper-thin slices of fresh cucumber and salmon roe. The salmon's delicate and flavoursome taste impressively reflect its freshness while the substitution of crème fraîche for the yoghurt lend a different taste profile that make the dish even more pleasing.

The pasta category includes three well-chosen options. My friend and I shared a plate of corn and truffle-filled agnolotti pasta with girolle mushroom, Parmesan and black truffles (1,055 baht), and were delighted.

Red Sky's al fresco dining terrace is blessed with panoramic views of downtown Bangkok. Pawat Laopaisarntaksin

The dish, featuring home-made, pouch-like pasta stuffed with sweetcorn and mascarpone cheese in a pool of rich and pungent sauce prepared with Parmesan, cream and shaved fresh summer truffle, was some of the most subtle-tasting pasta I've had.

Discerning diners are promised delight by Kwan's rendition of wagyu beef tenderloin Rossini (2,155 baht). The medallion of prime-grade beef was perfectly chargrilled to exhibit a lean yet very tender and flavourful quality. Enhancing the steak was sumptuous Madeira sauce -- a chunky concoction of foie gras morsels, Chanterell mushroom, red wine and beef jus. Meanwhile the complementing slab of pan-fried foie gras and silky potato purée proved excellent.

Another beef dish truly worth ordering is the 36-hour-braised American wagyu short ribs with potato gnocchi, asparagus, mushroom and grated Parmesan (1,555 baht). The dish was generously portioned, showcasing two hefty pieces of super succulent beef on a bed of tasty pasta.

Chef Alan. CENTARA GRAND AND BANGKOK CONVENTION CENTRE AT CENTRALWORLD

Being at Red Sky, you might not want to miss the restaurant's best-selling signature Red Sky Surf & Turf Tower (5,955 baht).

Typically a visual extraordinaire doesn't provide utmost palate-pleasure. But that's not the case here, despite the awe-inspiring size and presentation.

Serving two ... well, hungry persons, the three-tiered platter features grilled Australian wagyu rib-eye, Australian lamb cutlets, Maine lobster, giant Andaman prawns, Alaskan king crab and US scallops.

Every single element, be it the meat, seafood or the variety of side items such as sautéed forest mushrooms, grilled vegetables, fried potato wedges and dip, proved no less than top-notch.

For dessert, recommended is wild strawberry gateau with white-chocolate and strawberry glaze (295 baht) and the dark-chocolate sphere with vanilla ice cream (395 baht).

Service by the team of ever-smiling staff was brisk and impeccable.

The extravagant Surf & Turf Tower. PR

North Atlantic salmon tartare. PR

Red Sky

Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 55th floor Ratchadamri Road Call 02-100-6255 Open daily for dinner, 6-11.30pm Park at the hotel's car park Most credit cards accepted